Buying High-Quality Trees
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When you buy a high-quality tree, plant it correctly, and treat it
properly, you and your tree will benefit greatly in many ways
for many years.
When you buy a low-quality tree, you and your tree will have
many costly problems even if you take great care in planting
and maintenance.
What Determines Tree Quality?
A High-Quality Tree Has:
• An adequate-sized root ball. If possible, check to ensure
there are enough sound roots to support healthy growth.
• A trunk free of mechanical wounds and wounds from
incorrect pruning.
• A strong form with well-spaced, firmly-attached branches.
A Low-Quality Tree Has:
• Crushed or circling roots in a small root ball or small
container.
• A trunk with wounds from mechanical impacts or incorrect
pruning.
• A weak form where multiple stems squeeze against each
other or where branches squeeze against the trunk.
Any of these problems alone or in combination with the others
will greatly reduce the tree's chances for a long, attractive,
healthy, and productive life.
When buying a tree, inspect it carefully to make certain it
does not have problems with roots, injuries, or form.
(Remember "R.I.F." ?it will help you remember Roots, Injuries,
and Form.)
Here are some details on potential problems and some other
considerations that you should be aware of when buying a
tree.
Root Problems
Roots on trees for sale are in three categories:
1. Bare roots, no soil; usually on small trees.
2. Roots in soil held in place by burlap or some other fabric.
The root ball may be in a wire basket.
3. Roots and soil in a container.
Bare Root Stock
Bare roots should not be crushed or torn. The ends of the
roots should be clean cut. If a few roots are crushed, re-cut
them to remove the injured portions. Use sharp tools. Make
straight cuts. Do not paint the ends. The cuts should be made
immediately before planting and watering.
Root Balled Stock
You should be able to see the basal trunk flare. The flare is
the spreading trunk base that connects with the roots. Root
balls should be flat on top. Roots in soil in round bags often
have many major woody roots cut or torn during the bagging
process.
The diameter of the root ball should be at least ten to twelve
times the diameter of the trunk as measured 6 inches above
the trunk flare.
Roots should not be crushed or torn. After placing the root
ball in the planting site, cut the cords and carefully pull away
the burlap or other fabric. Examine any roots that protrude
from the soil. If many roots are obviously crushed or torn, the
tree will have severe growth problems. If only a few roots are
injured, cut away only the injured portions. Use a sharp tool.
Use care not to break the soil ball about the roots.
Cut the wire on wire baskets. Place the basket into the
planting site. Cut away at least the top two wires without
disturbing the root ball. Inspect exposed roots for injuries. If
many roots are injured, the tree may have serious growth
problems.
Container Stock
Roots should not twist or circle in the container. Remove the
root ball from the container. Inspect the exposed larger roots
carefully to see if they are twisting or turning in circles.
Circling roots often girdle and kill other roots. If only a few
roots are circling, cut them away with a sharp tool.
Trunk flare should be obvious. Be on alert for trees planted
too deeply in containers or trees "buried" in fabric bags. As
with root balled stock, you should be able to see the basal
trunk flare with container grown plants.
Injuries
Beware of injuries beneath trunk wraps. Trunk wraps may
hide wounds, incorrect pruning cuts, and insect injuries.
Never buy a tree without thoroughly checking the trunk. If the
tree is wrapped, remove the wrap and inspect the trunk for
wounds, incorrect pruning cuts, and insect injuries. Wrap can
be used to protect the trunk during transit but should be
removed after planting.
Incorrect pruning cuts are major problems. Incorrect pruning
cuts that remove or injure the swollen collar at the base of
branches can start many serious tree problems, cankers,
decay, and cracks.
Incorrect pruning cuts that leave branch and leader stubs
also start disease and defect problems. Do not leave stubs.
A correct pruning cut removes the branch just outside of the
collar. A ring, or "doughnut", of sound tissues then grows
around the cut. Do not make cuts flush to the trunk. The
closing tissues may form only to the sides of the flush cuts.
Trunk tissues above and below flush cut branches often die.
When the heat of the sun or the cold of frost occurs, cracks
or long dead streaks may develop above and below the dead
spots.
Form
Good, strong form, or architecture, starts with branches
evenly spaced along the trunk. The branches will have firm,
strong attachments with the trunk.
Squeezed branches signal problems. Weak branch unions
occur where the branch and trunk squeeze together. As the
squeezing increases during diameter growth, dead spots, or
cracks often begin to form below where the branch is
attached to the trunk. Once this problem starts, the weak
branch attachment could lead to branches cracking or
breaking during mild to moderate storms.
When several branches are on the same position on the
trunk, the likelihood of weak attachments and cracks
increases greatly. As the branches grow larger and tighter
together, the chances for splitting increase.
Avoid trees with two or more stems squeezing together. As
stems squeeze together, cracks often form down the trunk.
The cracks could start from squeezed multiple leader stems,
or where the two trunks come together.
If you desire a tree with multiple trunks, such as a birch
clump, make certain that the trunks are well-separated at the
ground line.
Remember, trunks expand in diameter as they grow. Two
trunks may be slightly separated when small; but, as they
grow in girth, the trunks will squeeze together.
Look for early signs of vertical trunk cracks. Examine branch
unions carefully for small cracks below the unions. Cracks are
major starting points for fractures of branches and trunks.
The small cracks could be present for many years before a
fracture happens. Always keep a close watch for vertical
cracks below squeezed branches and squeezed trunks.
Corrective pruning helps. If your tree has only a few minor
problems, corrective pruning may help. Start corrective
pruning one year after planting. Space the pruning over
several years.
Remove broken or torn branches at the time of planting. After
a year, start corrective pruning by removing the branches
that died after planting.
Trees Have Dignity Too
Most nurseries produce high-quality trees. When you start
with a high-quality tree, you are giving that tree a chance to
express its dignity for many years. Remember RIF.
For Additional Information
This brochure is one in a series published by the International
Society of Arboriculture as part of its Consumer Information
Program.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
When you buy a high-quality tree, plant it correctly, and treat it
properly, you and your tree will benefit greatly in many ways
for many years.
When you buy a low-quality tree, you and your tree will have
many costly problems even if you take great care in planting
and maintenance.
What Determines Tree Quality?
A High-Quality Tree Has:
• An adequate-sized root ball. If possible, check to ensure
there are enough sound roots to support healthy growth.
• A trunk free of mechanical wounds and wounds from
incorrect pruning.
• A strong form with well-spaced, firmly-attached branches.
A Low-Quality Tree Has:
• Crushed or circling roots in a small root ball or small
container.
• A trunk with wounds from mechanical impacts or incorrect
pruning.
• A weak form where multiple stems squeeze against each
other or where branches squeeze against the trunk.
Any of these problems alone or in combination with the others
will greatly reduce the tree's chances for a long, attractive,
healthy, and productive life.
When buying a tree, inspect it carefully to make certain it
does not have problems with roots, injuries, or form.
(Remember "R.I.F." ?it will help you remember Roots, Injuries,
and Form.)
Here are some details on potential problems and some other
considerations that you should be aware of when buying a
tree.
Root Problems
Roots on trees for sale are in three categories:
1. Bare roots, no soil; usually on small trees.
2. Roots in soil held in place by burlap or some other fabric.
The root ball may be in a wire basket.
3. Roots and soil in a container.
Bare Root Stock
Bare roots should not be crushed or torn. The ends of the
roots should be clean cut. If a few roots are crushed, re-cut
them to remove the injured portions. Use sharp tools. Make
straight cuts. Do not paint the ends. The cuts should be made
immediately before planting and watering.
Root Balled Stock
You should be able to see the basal trunk flare. The flare is
the spreading trunk base that connects with the roots. Root
balls should be flat on top. Roots in soil in round bags often
have many major woody roots cut or torn during the bagging
process.
The diameter of the root ball should be at least ten to twelve
times the diameter of the trunk as measured 6 inches above
the trunk flare.
Roots should not be crushed or torn. After placing the root
ball in the planting site, cut the cords and carefully pull away
the burlap or other fabric. Examine any roots that protrude
from the soil. If many roots are obviously crushed or torn, the
tree will have severe growth problems. If only a few roots are
injured, cut away only the injured portions. Use a sharp tool.
Use care not to break the soil ball about the roots.
Cut the wire on wire baskets. Place the basket into the
planting site. Cut away at least the top two wires without
disturbing the root ball. Inspect exposed roots for injuries. If
many roots are injured, the tree may have serious growth
problems.
Container Stock
Roots should not twist or circle in the container. Remove the
root ball from the container. Inspect the exposed larger roots
carefully to see if they are twisting or turning in circles.
Circling roots often girdle and kill other roots. If only a few
roots are circling, cut them away with a sharp tool.
Trunk flare should be obvious. Be on alert for trees planted
too deeply in containers or trees "buried" in fabric bags. As
with root balled stock, you should be able to see the basal
trunk flare with container grown plants.
Injuries
Beware of injuries beneath trunk wraps. Trunk wraps may
hide wounds, incorrect pruning cuts, and insect injuries.
Never buy a tree without thoroughly checking the trunk. If the
tree is wrapped, remove the wrap and inspect the trunk for
wounds, incorrect pruning cuts, and insect injuries. Wrap can
be used to protect the trunk during transit but should be
removed after planting.
Incorrect pruning cuts are major problems. Incorrect pruning
cuts that remove or injure the swollen collar at the base of
branches can start many serious tree problems, cankers,
decay, and cracks.
Incorrect pruning cuts that leave branch and leader stubs
also start disease and defect problems. Do not leave stubs.
A correct pruning cut removes the branch just outside of the
collar. A ring, or "doughnut", of sound tissues then grows
around the cut. Do not make cuts flush to the trunk. The
closing tissues may form only to the sides of the flush cuts.
Trunk tissues above and below flush cut branches often die.
When the heat of the sun or the cold of frost occurs, cracks
or long dead streaks may develop above and below the dead
spots.
Form
Good, strong form, or architecture, starts with branches
evenly spaced along the trunk. The branches will have firm,
strong attachments with the trunk.
Squeezed branches signal problems. Weak branch unions
occur where the branch and trunk squeeze together. As the
squeezing increases during diameter growth, dead spots, or
cracks often begin to form below where the branch is
attached to the trunk. Once this problem starts, the weak
branch attachment could lead to branches cracking or
breaking during mild to moderate storms.
When several branches are on the same position on the
trunk, the likelihood of weak attachments and cracks
increases greatly. As the branches grow larger and tighter
together, the chances for splitting increase.
Avoid trees with two or more stems squeezing together. As
stems squeeze together, cracks often form down the trunk.
The cracks could start from squeezed multiple leader stems,
or where the two trunks come together.
If you desire a tree with multiple trunks, such as a birch
clump, make certain that the trunks are well-separated at the
ground line.
Remember, trunks expand in diameter as they grow. Two
trunks may be slightly separated when small; but, as they
grow in girth, the trunks will squeeze together.
Look for early signs of vertical trunk cracks. Examine branch
unions carefully for small cracks below the unions. Cracks are
major starting points for fractures of branches and trunks.
The small cracks could be present for many years before a
fracture happens. Always keep a close watch for vertical
cracks below squeezed branches and squeezed trunks.
Corrective pruning helps. If your tree has only a few minor
problems, corrective pruning may help. Start corrective
pruning one year after planting. Space the pruning over
several years.
Remove broken or torn branches at the time of planting. After
a year, start corrective pruning by removing the branches
that died after planting.
Trees Have Dignity Too
Most nurseries produce high-quality trees. When you start
with a high-quality tree, you are giving that tree a chance to
express its dignity for many years. Remember RIF.
For Additional Information
This brochure is one in a series published by the International
Society of Arboriculture as part of its Consumer Information
Program.
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